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"Friendliest bar on the North Side"
 Well, the secret is out: one of the best neighborhood bars in Chicago is not in Lincoln Park, Bucktown or even Lakeview. It's in the far north Chicago hamlet of Andersonville, and its name is the Hopleaf Bar. Locals know it simply as "Hopleaf" and desperately try to guard its eroding anonymity from those bar-hopping further south. Even though the weekend crowds can get brutal, Hopleaf remains true to its design as a very cool neighborhood joint that draws its loyal and increasing following from its laid-back vibe, tasteful decor, eclectic music, the best steamed mussels in the city, a most pleasant outdoor beer garden, and one of the best "hop" selections in the city with Belgian beers (even trappist ales) on tap as their specialty.
Since 1992, Andersonville has quietly become one of Chicago's most popular neighborhood enclaves. The area is clean, gang-free, easily accessible to the Loop (thanks to Lake Shore Drive and Clark Street buses), and has a unique character due to its Swedish roots and recent influence of older gay couples migrating from Boystown further south. The result is an interesting mix of kitschy boutiques, excellent restaurants like the original location of both Ann Sather's Restaurant and Reza's (Mediterranean), and notable imbiberies that include Simon's and Konak. Hopleaf itself is located near the corner of Clark and Winona Street, just south of Foster Avenue. To find it, keep your eye out for the modest, hand-made Hopleaf sign depicting the three-leafed hop plant, or the smallish red neon Hopleaf sign both above the wooden door with plate glass. The best way to get there is via cab unless you don't mind a long walk from the Lawrence El stop on the Red Line or the slow boat to China, otherwise known as the Clark Street #22 bus. If you cab it, don't worry. Just because it's way up north you'll be able to find one going back south, which makes it easy to head directly over to the Lakeview Lounge, Carol's Pub or Nick's Uptown for some late-night action.
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Beauty in simplicity. Some of the best bars in this great city of Chicago are those that offer a good pint in a comfortable setting, and not much more. The Charleston, Redmond's and Jake's Pub are prime examples of this and the Hopleaf fits right in with this triumvirate of classic Chicago neighborhood bars. As you step inside, you'll find a dark room filled with low-slung, wooden tables with votive candles and green vinyl-padded wooden booths along the north wall. Original Solanis, Biere Titan and other German art deco beer posters from the 1920s adorn the beige and green-painted, wood-paneled walls. A wooden bar stretches along the south side of the room, below a green-painted tin ceiling and two large chalkboards that illustrate most of Hopleaf's gargantuan selection of beers; all of which are detailed in a very large, laminated, double-sided beer menu found at the bar and on each table. While I was sad to see the rather quiet, retro jukebox that played actual 45s (that's singles on vinyl for you youngsters) with a selection of tunes from the 1940s through the 1960s removed, the bartenders play a pretty good selection of music. Hopleaf doesn't have any television, so the only entertainment to be had is from a library of reading materials that includes a full set of encyclopedias, and an intriguing selection of magazines that includes The New Yorker, Mother Jones, Atlantic Monthly, Utne Reader, and Smithsonian – the "best magazine rack in Chicago" according to owner Michael Roper. All publications can be found at the base of the ramp leading to the backroom, and just around the corner from the one-seater, unisex john (behind the jukebox). If the music and magazines don't do not suffice for your amusement, you might actually have to talk to the people you're with. I remember one night discussing how I successfully avoided getting roped into Amway by a friend that was on a full-tilt, pyramid-scam boogie. My friend was not as fortunate. He got sucked in for six months until his father broke down and chided him out of it. His life has been much better since. We then turned our discussion to what does or does not constitute a war crime. You know, the usual banter. I'm sure, had we thought of it, we would have had a thorough and fulfilling conversation on Arabic language translation software...
If you can deal with the occasional snobbiness of the bartenders, belly up and order from one of Hopleaf's 18 taps and selection of more than 150 beers, over 30 of which are Belgian – the bar's specialty. Only Quenchers offers more in the city, but fewer on tap. Personally, I have sampled many of these barley offerings and have been quite impressed with the Dogfish Head Stout, Schlenkeria Rouchbier (a "smoked" German beer ordered by a friend that tastes disturbingly close to beef jerky but which is surprisingly good), De Dolle 20th Anniversary Ale, Marcofrau, Framboise Lambic, Stille Nacht, Cantillon Iris, Eugene Debs Red Ale, Zatte Bie, an impressive selection of mead, and the Swedish glög (only available in the winter months and quite fitting considering the neighborhood). The bar itself is actually named after a beer from Roper's ancestral Malta. What's more: each beer, no matter how obscure, has a certain glass that is ideally suited to experience the libation as it was meant to. Fruity beers are served in a glass with a large opening so that you can appreciate its aroma as much as its taste. Drier and more bitter beers are served in narrower glasses, as we wouldn't want your nose to be overwhelmed by hops. These glasses are stored next to the bar, on glass shelving and showcased by a back-lit wall of glass blocks. In addition to the glowing display of specialty glassware, owner Michael Roper even had a custom-made Bell's Brewery neon sign that now hangs proudly in the window. Now that's what you call a commitment to beer. Have no idea what you want? Not a beer lover? Don't worry, the bartenders will offer suggestions and often will pour you a sample so that you can have a taste before making any commitments – just don't try to order a Bud Light, MGD and, for the love of God, don't ask for a Stella Artois. If you forget, don't be surprised by the open disdain of the bartenders as Hopleaf does not carry these "wannabe" beers. Stella in particular, while made in Belgium, tastes more like a lager and not a traditional Belgian brew, and is not regarded highly by Belgian enthusiasts. Hopleaf does offer a good selection of wine and single-malt Scotch if you're so inclined.
 Not only does Hopleaf offer a most impressive array of beer, but they now offer an excellent menu of Belgian food. The dining room can be found up the ramp, past the bookcase in the front room. There you'll find a number of low-slung wooden tables within a high-ceilinged vault of exposed brick and long plate glass windows. The steamed mussels are the stand-out at Hopleaf. I am allergic to shellfish but I work with a Walloon (French Belgian), who has very good taste in food and he claims the mussels to be very good and the best you can get in Chicago. To my mind, this is an official Belgian certification and good enough for me to recommend it. I've had the steak with pomme frites (thin French fries), and it was excellent – as good as I've had at Le Bouchon, my favorite French restaurant in the city. As the green pole with white lettering indicates, you can enjoy your meal in a smoke-free environment but you can still smoke in the bar. Food is also served in the main barroom. Because the food is excellent, particularly when combined with a selection of the Belgian ale, that don't be surprised if there's a two-hour wait during primetime on the weekends. My advice: get there early on weekends (before 8pm) or head over to Hopleaf during the week.
 While weekdays can be pretty quiet, weekends at the Hopleaf can get a bit claustrophobic. The beer garden (accessible through the dining room) offers leafy tranquility in summer and the room upstairs offers additional space but is quite small, with a very narrow hallway and only a few tables, and does not offer any of the beer on tap. The crowd at Hopleaf consists mainly of mellow neighborhood types, ranging in age from late twenties to middle age. Hopleaf promotes itself as friendly but many, including myself, have found the atmosphere to be a tad pretentious in a Wicker Park sort of way. Patrons are often local theater types, beer connoisseurs, musicians, older neighborhood couples (gay and straight), and those venturing in from outside the area – the types that Andersonville-ites fear will overrun their little treasure. However, this shouldn't bother you as you explore the drinks menu and enjoy the tunes. Think of Hopleaf as a Caribou Coffee with beer and sans fireplace.
 Hopleaf is located in the heart of Andersonville, the Swedish capital of Chicago. Prior to the Hopleaf, the building was operated as Clark Foster Liquors (specifically because of its proximity to that intersection), by owner, Hans Gotling. Hans is a big part of why the neighborhood is called Andersonville in the first place, as it is officially part of the Edgewater neighborhood. To combat the urban decay of the 1960s, Hans, as 47th Ward precinct captain together with the local chamber of commerce, created the area concept of "Andersonville," named after the Swedish Andersonville School, run by Reverend Anderson. Andersonville was a way to celebrate their Swedish ancestry and to bring a renewed sense of pride to an area that suffered from vacant lots and overall neglect. Within just a few years, Andersonville blossomed and is now one of the more sought after residential neighborhoods in the city. In addition, Hans was well known for making homemade glögg, later served annually at Hopleaf during Christmas-time. Glögg you should know that it is made from a combination of hot port wine blended with raisins, aquavit (Swedish vodka) and other spices, and that it is too good not to try. Sadly, Hans joined his Viking ancestors in December 2006, but his glögg tradition lives on at Hopleaf.
"Intellectually superior to the Map Room, ultimately more comfortable that the Clark Street Ale House, and beerologically superior to all the other trendoid establishments. If you want smiling bartenders acting like they are interested in your oh-so-boring-crap-for-a-story life go elsewhere. If you want to drink good beer and talk about Arabic language translation software while listening to what is arguably one of the best jukeboxes in the city, then come on over to the Hopleaf. Or maybe you shouldn't. Maybe you should just stay at home and watch TV."
– R.D., Chicago (originally appeared February 27 on Metromix)
Intellectually superior? Arabic language translation software? Hmm...
"We're guessing the reason this popular but wholly unremarkable Andersonville spot has bothered to collect such an extensive selection of beers is probably to compensate for the fact that the bartenders are such raging assholes... You are guaranteed icy contempt with every drink but beyond that it's a whole lotta nothin': no jukebox, no specials, no reason to go back without a hand grenade."
– Shecky's Bar, Club & Lounge Guide 2002
Photo courtesy of Drinking & Writing Brewery
 While I don't quite agree with Shecky's jaded, yet entertaining review, they make a good point: the only thing holding Hopleaf back from being a great bar is that it does not have as friendly an atmosphere as is advertised. In my opinion, if the bartenders and regulars were more like those found at Gannon's Pub or the Four Moon Tavern, Hopleaf might rank as one of the city's top pubs. Regardless, Hopleaf is one of my favorite bars as it stands out for its relaxed vibe and is a paradise for beer lovers. Hopleaf was even one of only 12 bars in Chicago rated Four Mugs (highest) by The Official Chicago Bar Guide in 2001 and was ranked "Top Tavern" nationally by All About Beer. I would especially recommend the Hopleaf, both before and after, a viewing of Too Much Light Makes the Baby Go Blind (TML MTBGB), which is a 15-year old, ever changing comedic masterpiece put on by the Neo Futurists (located on the southeast corner of Foster and Ashland, just above the Nelson Funeral Home). Just don't expect the locals to welcome you with open arms. For more information, check out the Hopleaf Bar website. Kippis!
"Hopleaf recently added 12 more taps for a total of 30. They are also emphasizing Belgians on tap (8 when I was there) and there variety and quality on draft is now matched only by the Map Room. They also plan to expand seating and add a small kitchen that will focus on Belgian foods."
– T.G. (July 29, 2002)
"Well, I am afraid I am of the 'great beers, lousy service camp.' I am a brewer and lover of fine Belgian ales. And I appreciate what the owners have tried to do with their line, and admire them for holding tough in that mission. However, like another reviewer, I have been so fed up in the past with unbelievably rude bartenders that I swore the place off. Last night, I went with a group. Our bartender was a nice guy. The owner himself was so unbelievably amped and rude to myself and my friends that I will, definitely, not be going back. My wife and I ordered full dinners, as did most of my friends. Between the two of us, we ordered several bottles of 333 and 750 ml Belgian ales. Same for the rest of the company. One of them brought in a small portion of artisinal cheeses from an event he hosted over the weekend, not knowing the place now served food. These were rare cheeses, and we were glad to try them. Most of us are in the industry, and understand the custom of 'no outside food.' But there is a way to handle this, and the way the owner handled it ensured I will never return. We apologized for bringing the cheese, and asked if he would like us to put it away; I mentioned we were sorry, but meant no harm – after all, had already dropped close to $80 per couple. He 'instructed' me on how you don't bring beer into a bar, and so you don't bring food into a restaurant. Agree on point, but lousy delivery. We were soundly, and publicly rebuked. To hell with the Hopleaf. There are plenty of other choices."
– P.S. (September 7, 2003)
~ Have a good story relating to this bar? E-mail me. ~
– written by Sean Parnell
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Photo courtesy of Andrew M.
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