837 W. Fulton Market (300N, 830W)
Chicago, IL 60607
Publican is an intriguing restaurant. They have an impressive beer list and the menu is unique as well with its blood sausage, pork skins and sweetbreads. The problem: you have to reserve weeks in advance, their bar area takes up a huge amount of space that would be better suited for tables, the food is very heavy (except for the oysters), the beer is even heavier (most selections are large format, costing $20-40 each and containing barely wine levels of alcohol at 8%-12%). It all makes for a rather expensive night out—and one that requires a few trips to the gym afterwards. The communal seating is fine, but if there are two guys sitting next to each other, you will be bumping elbows all night. Publican is one of the more recent and most lauded of the gastropub ilk (though much more restaurant than pub). Will it last?